Pairings | Desserts & cakes

Wine (and other) pairings for peaches and nectarines

Wine (and other) pairings for peaches and nectarines

Being surrounded by peaches and nectarines at the moment has reminded me what a brilliant match they are for a glass of dessert wine. And, surprisingly, even for a red!

Peaches in red wine is a popular Italian dessert that’s easy to replicate with any light fruity red as I pointed out in this match of the week.

With other peach or nectarine puddings your wine choice depends on how sweet your dessert is, whether it’s served hot or cold and what it’s served with (a good dollop of cream always helps).

A warm peach pie or a peach cobbler, for instance, needs a sweeter wine than a classic French peach or nectarine tart served at room temperature. But in truth with peaches and nectarines you can’t go far wrong. 

Summer fruits and sweet wine - what could be better?

Fresh or simply poached peaches or nectarines

Great with a light Moscato d’Asti or a still muscat like a Muscat de Frontignan. Other off-dry sparkling wines such as demi-sec champagne work well too, especially with white peaches

Peach sabayon

Can be served warm or cold and may include some kind of booze which could provide a steer (or do away with the need for an accompanying wine altogether) but Sauternes or other late harvest Sauvignon Blanc is a reasonably safe bet

French style peach or nectarine tart

Frankly any light dessert wine you enjoy - Sauternes, other late harvest sauvignons and semillons, Coteaux du Layon and other Loire dessert wines, late harvest Chenin, South African straw wine, late harvest riesling . . .

Grilled peaches or nectarines

As in this recipe with Greek yoghurt and honey. I’d go for Moscato or muscat again. 

Peach melba

The raspberry sauce muddles the situation here. You want a sweet wine with a high level of acidity like a late harvest riesling

Peach sorbet

Super-cold, near-frozen peach liqueurs, if anything

Hot peach or nectarine desserts like peach pie, peach cobbler, upside-down cakes or crumbles

Intense late harvest sauvignons like those from New Zealand ought to cope as should a late harvest chardonnay but I’d also consider a chilled peach-flavoured liqueur like Archers or Southern Comfort which tend to handle warm and hot desserts better than wine.

Peaches and nectarines can, of course also be used in savoury dishes, particularly salads, with rich cheeses such as burrata and with ham, pork and duck.

I’d be inclined to go for a lush Italian white like a Greco di Tufo with peaches and burrata though this pairing with a ‘bianco’ style white vermouth was sensational.

With salads I’d be inclined to go for a lush white with some tropical fruit flavours - a Viognier or a Colombard, maybe.

With ham and peaches I’d probably drink a rich beer like a saison and with duck and peaches an off-dry pinot gris.

Photo by LuAnn Hunt on Unsplash

 What wine - if any - goes with ice cream?

What wine - if any - goes with ice cream?

It’s not impossible to pair wine with ice cream - there are wine bars which do just that - j but it’s not easy. And there are other drinks that match better.

First wine. What’s the problem? Well in addition to being sweet, ice cream is - er - icy so tends to strip the flavour out of sweet wines. One exception is unctuous sticky PX (Pedro Ximenez) sherry which is not only good with ice cream (preferably vanilla or rum and raisin) but on it.

Also if ice cream is served as part of a dessert especially a warm dessert like an apple pie or crumble it warms it up and makes it less difficult to match. In fact you’re best to match the dessert rather than the ice cream. See the best pairings for apple desserts.

But in general it’s better to turn to liqueurs which are super-sweet and syrupy themselves. For example:

Cherry brandy with a cherry (or raspberry) ripple ice cream

Apricot brandy with apricot or peach ice cream

Salted caramel liqueur with praline (or other nut) ice cream

Amaretto with an almond semi-freddo

Fragolino (wild strawberry liqueur) with strawberry ice cream

A coffee liqueur (or an espresso martini!) with chocolate icecream

And if you want to experience something really left-field try this pairing of tonka bean ice cream with Pacharan (aniseed-flavoured Basque liqueur) I had a while back.

So basically enhance the flavour of the ice cream with a similar liqueur.

It works with sorbets too - think how good frozen vodka is poured over a lemon sorbet or of sipping a rhubarb gin with a rhubarb sorbet. A lot of fruit flavoured gins (which are essentially liqueurs) are sweet enough to go with a sorbet or ice cream.

You could of course just take the view that ice cream is enough of a treat as it is and that you don’t really need a shot of liqueur on top.

Oh, go on then, if you must. I won’t tell!

Photo © MaraZe at shutterstock.com

My top wine pairings with strawberries

My top wine pairings with strawberries

I’m sure you’re enjoying a bowlful or two of strawberries at this time of year. But what to drink with them?

The classic pairing of champagne is to my mind too dry unless the champagne is rosé or demi-sec but there are plenty of other possibilities depending on how you serve your berries and how sweet the dessert is overall.

If the dessert includes meringue, pastry or shortbread you’ll need a sweeter wine than if you’re serving the strawberries on their own or with pouring cream.

Unsweetened strawberries or served plain with a little sugar

Perfectly ripe berries, especially wild strawberries can be delicious with an off-dry sparkling wine such as Moscato d’Asti, Asti, Clairette de Die or even a sparkling white zinfandel or Australian sparkling rosé like Jacob’s Creek.

You could also serve them the French or Italian way macerated in a light red wine such as Beaujolais with a little sugar - a (reasonably) healthy alternative to cream!

Strawberries and cream

The perfect foil for a classic dessert wine such as Sauternes or (more economically) Monbazillac from just outside the Bordeaux region. Alternatively if you don’t want to serve wine you could choose a contrasting but complementary well-chilled fruit juice such as passionfruit or mango.

Light airy strawberry desserts such as mousses, soufflés or gâteaux

A demi-sec (sweet) champagne would be the traditional choice but pink prosecco with its touch of sweetness would work too

Strawberry tarts or shortcakes

The additional sweetness you get from the pastry or shortbread means your wine needs to be sweeter. Sauternes or similar wines from the Bordeaux region will probably work but I’d be inclined to go for a luscious new world botrytised or late harvest semillon or sauvignon. Sweet wines from the Loire such as Coteaux du Layon can also work well

See these Ultimate Strawberry Tartlets.

strawberry pavlova

Strawberries with meringue such as a pavlova, sundae or Eton Mess

Light and airy but typically sweeter than a gateau. A sweet wine with good acidity such as a late harvest or Beerenauslese riesling can be good or try a strawberry or raspberry liqueur topped up with champagne (like a kir royale or strawberry or raspberry bellini)

Strawberry cheesecake

I really enjoy fruit flavoured beers with the rich but slightly savoury flavour of cheesecake and a strawberry beer such as the Belgian Fruli is quite perfect. It would also be a good choice if you served strawberries with mascarpone. (If you can’t get hold of a strawberry beer try a cherry or raspberry-flavoured one)

Try this snack of crackers spread with cream cheese and topped with strawberries with white zinfandel.

Cream cheese and strawberry-topped crackers

Strawberries dipped in chocolate

If strawberries are served with or dipped in chocolate you need to take account of the flavour of the chocolate too. With milk chocolate I’d go for a sweet red like the Italian Brachetto d’Aqui, with dark chocolate maybe a richer red like a Recioto della Valpolicella.

Strawberries with orange

Strawberries and orange have a surprising affinity but will tend to strip out the fruit flavours in any accompanying dessert wine. Try a frozen shot of Cointreau or a small glass of Pimms No 1 Cup, made slightly stronger than usual.

Strawberry ice creams and sorbets

Matching wine to ice cream can be tricky unless there are other elements to the dessert and you are simply serving a scoop in place of cream. I quite like to serve a chilled liqueur that will pick out the fruit flavours such as a delicate, strawberry-flavoured ratafia di fragola.

Since I first wrote this article a couple of years ago there’s a new generation of pink moscatos and other sparkling reds and rosés which would work really well too. See these suggestions in my Guardian column

Top image by HomeMaker on Pixabay

Which wines to drink on St Patrick’s Day

Which wines to drink on St Patrick’s Day

It’s hard to avoid the obvious on St Paddy’s Day. Guinness, Bailey’s and Irish whiskey are the usual suspects but if none of these appeals here are the sort of wines that will work with classic Irish fare.

Oysters

Here’s where the Guinness comes in but if you don’t like Guinness, what then? A crisp white like Chablis, Muscadet or Picpoul de Pinet hits the spot

Smoked salmon and soda bread

Sauvignon Blanc is a better match for smoked salmon than champagne if truth be told. I’d go for one from the Loire myself like a Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or - bargain drinking - Côteaux du Giennois, available in Majestic and Marks & Sparks

Cockle and mussel chowder

A lovely recipe from TV’s Rachel Allen. The blissful combination of shellfish and cream generally calls for a Chardonnay. Chablis would be classic but any other cool climate chardonnay would do. Or try an Italian white like Soave or Gavi

Irish stew

A plain, old-fashioned dish that works better with beer (bitter or pale ale rather than Guinness, I suggest) than with wine to be honest. Otherwise try a decent (but not too alcoholic) Côtes du Rhône or a mature Rioja

Boiled bacon and cabbage

Again I really like stout with this kind of dish but wine-wise I’d be looking at a cru Beaujolais or other Gamay, an inexpensive red Burgundy or a young Syrah. Natural wines with their vivid fruit flavours work well with ham. Try the Raisins Gaulois I recommended in the Guardian a while back. Cider would also be a good pairing.

Corned beef and cabbage

Another classic St Patrick’s Day dish from Darina Allen. Basically this is boiled salted brisket and vegetables - a simple meal that will make any accompanying wine taste sweeter than it otherwise would. I’d probably go for an inexpensive red Bordeaux though you could drink a crisp white like an Aligoté, Chablis or Grüner Veltliner.

Beef and Guinness pie or stew

Anything cooked in Guinness like these braised beef and champ pies or sausages in Guinness gravy are a good match with Guinness or other stouts or porters. Wine-wise I’d go for a robust Languedoc red, Syrah or Malbec

Roast rib of beef with horseradish sauce

There’s a long tradition of Irish-owned chateaux in Bordeaux so a good claret would be in keeping with the occasion. But any medium-to full-bodied red you enjoy is going to do the trick.

An Irish cheeseboard

Ireland has some fantastic cheeses like Adrahan, Coolea, Gubbeen and Cashel Blue though they tend to be quite strong. I’m not sure this isn’t an occasion to crack open a bottle of vintage port if you’ve got one. A good Late Bottled Vintage or 10 year old tawny if you haven’t.

There’s no classic St Patrick’s Day dessert that I’m aware of. Darina’s Rhubarb Bread and Butter pudding would do nicely (I’d pair a Sauternes with that) or try these clever Irish whiskey shots with a cream float from Rachel Allen

Photograph © Brent Hofacker - Fotolia.com

The best wine to pair with rhubarb

The best wine to pair with rhubarb

You might be surprised to learn that rhubarb is a great ingredient to pair with wine.

Generally dessert wines need to be sweeter than the dessert they accompany and rhubarb has a natural tartness that makes that easier to achieve especially when it’s served with wine-friendly cream as in a rhubarb fool, pannacotta or a creamy rice pudding.

Not only that but you can pair some of the best sweet wines with rhubarb - wines like Sauternes or Germany’s top late harvest rieslings. Here are my top picks.

What wines to pair with rhubarb

Sauternes or similar sweet wines from Bordeaux

Light, lush lemony Sauternes and similar wines such as Loupiac or Cadillac work well especially when the dessert is accompanied by cream. Probably the combination I reach for most often as this post shows though I’d generally go for younger rather than older vintages

Other late harvest sauvignons or semillons from elsewhere in the world would work too

Auslese, beerenauslese or other late harvest rieslings

Riesling has a corresponding acidity that makes it a great match. Rhubarb can balance the intense sweetness of even an ice wine. I once had a cabernet franc-based Canadian ice wine with rhubarb cheesecake which was a sensational match.

Sparkling rosés especially pinot noir-based ones or rosé prosecco

Work well when the wine is off-dry and the dessert not too sweet. A lovely echo of colour with early season pink rhubarb.

Moscato d’asti would be good if there’s meringue involved like this walnut meringue cake with buttermilk cream and poached rhubarb dessert

A chilled shot of rhubarb gin or vodka, especially with a rhubarb pie or crumble. That’s not wine, obviously, but there are so many delicious rhubarb-based drinks around you should definitely experiment. You can get non-alcoholic rhubarb sodas and nectares too.

Rhubarb also pops up in savoury dishes such as this pork recipe or this amazing-sounding deep-fried Iberico pork chop with hot and sour rhubarb pickle from Donald Edwards* and with oily fish such as mackerel. None is an easy match. I’m guessing here but I would probably go for a sharp dry white such as an assyrtiko, certainly with the mackerel, a dry riesling or even a pink pet nat or good, dry artisanal cider. Any thoughts?

Are you a rhubarb fan? Try this delicious blood orange and rhubarb meringue pie or rhubarb and strawberry crumble sundae.

* It’s well worth checking out Donald’s blog Radical Wine Pairing

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